En route from Fort William to the Isle of Skye we made a brief stop at a couple of iconic vistas on Loch Duich – the Five Sisters and Eilean Donan Castle.
A ridge of five summits to the north-east of Glen Shiel is known as the Five Sisters of Kintail. According to legend, the five sisters are the oldest of seven sisters, as the youngest two sisters fell in love with two Irish princes who washed ashore during a storm. Their father would only allow them to marry once the older sisters had also been married, and so the princes agreed to send their other five brothers once they had returned to Ireland with their new wives. Although the princes failed to appear, the five sisters continued to wait, eventually turning into mountains to extend their vigil into eternity.
The end of Loch Duich with the Five Sisters in the background
Eilean Donan Castle is recognised as one of the most iconic images of Scotland all over the world. Situated on an island at the point where three great sea lochs meet, and surrounded by some majestic scenery, it is little wonder that the castle is now one of the most visited and important attractions in the Scottish Highlands.
Although first inhabited around the 6th century, the first fortified castle was built in the mid-13th century and stood guard over the lands of Kintail. Since then, at least four different versions of the castle have been built and re-built as the feudal history of Scotland unfolded through the centuries.
Eilean Donan Castle
We arrived on the Isle of Skye late morning and had a few hours to wait until we could check-in to our next property. As the weather was still gloriously sunny, we decided on a scenic drive to Elgol, on the southeastern tip of the island.
Here we discovered the wonderful Loch Slapin and our first Blackface sheep, the most common variety of the 100,000+ sheep on the island. They wander freely all over the place including many of the roads!
Blackface sheep grazing on the side of Loch Slapin
The drive to Elgol was via another single track road and was spectacular.
Driving back from Elgol with two of a trio of screed-topped domes visible in the distance
We finally navigated to the top of a remote hill to find our home for the next 5 days, which had the most stunning views from the patio.
Charlotte taking in the view with a coffee and well-earned rest
The next day, the weather had changed to low grey cloud, more typical of the Scottish Highlands. In this type of weather the island takes on a more mystic and atmospheric feel, particularly as it wasn’t raining!
We headed out to explore the Fairy Pools, first stopping at Sligachan Bridge.
The iconic Sligachan Bridge with its spectacular views of the Cuillin Mountains, is one of the most photographed bridges on the Isle of Skye.
Sligachan Bridge, with the Cuillin Mountains in the background partly obscured by low cloud
The Fairy Pools, located at Glenbrittle, are beautiful rock pools of crystal clear spring water fed by a series of waterfalls from the Cuillin Mountains. A hiking trail follows the springs and pools up the glen into the lower hills of the mountains. Hot summer days will often see visitors swimming in the pools – fortunately we arrived early in the morning to avoid the swimmers and it was a little nippy!
One of many beautiful rock pools fed by small waterfalls
Charlotte carefully crossing a stream
One of the major falls at Fairy Pools
We were again lucky with good weather the next day as we explored Trotternish, the northernmost peninsula on the island, which has at its heart the high ridge of volcanic rock known as the Trotternish Ridge.
Starting early, we headed for Old Man of Storr and probably the most famous walk on the Island. The ‘Old Man’ is a large pinnacle of rock that stands high and can be seen for miles around. As part of the Trotternish Ridge the Storr was created by a massive ancient landside, leaving one of the most photographed landscapes in Scotland. The ‘Old Man’ is 164 ft. tall and is the highest point on the Trotternish Ridge at an elevation of 2,358 ft.
When driving north, the first glimpse of the pinnacle is from the southern end of Loch Fada.
Loch Fada with the ‘Old Man’ in the distant background
The ascent up the Storr is not long, about 2-miles round trip, but is very steep in places. During the walk up, the summit was covered in intermittent low cloud.
Charlotte taking a break before the final ascent – The ‘Old Man’ is hidden in the clouds!
The ‘Old Man’ finally reveals himself through the cloud
Further up the eastern side of the peninsula we drove high up into the mountains and walked along the Quiraing, an ancient landslip on the eastern face of Meall na Suiramach, the northernmost summit of the Trotternish Ridge. This provided spectacular views across the ridge.
View across the Trotternish Ridge
View from the end of the ridge out to the village of Staffin and Staffin bay – the walking trail can be seen on the left.
Fortunately Charlotte was getting used to the early morning starts, as Monday was another one for our to visit Neist Point and walk to the Lighthouse, which is situated on the most westerly tip of Skye. The lighthouse was first lit in 1909, however, since 1990, the lighthouse has been operated remotely and is unmanned. The former lighthouse keepers’ cottages are now in private ownership.
Neist Point Lighthouse sits at the end of a stunning promontory jutting out into Moonen Bay – the walking path can be seen winding down to the headland
Charlotte on the last part of the walk to the lighthouse
After our strenuous walk to the lighthouse we drove to Dunvegan Castle for a more leisurely walk around the castle and gardens, together with a boat trip on the Loch to visit a resident colony of Harbour Seals.
Located on the shore of Loch Dunvegan, the castle is the seat of the MacLeod of MacLeod, chief of the Clan MacLeod. Probably a fortified site from the earliest times, the Dunvegan Castle was first built in the 13th century and developed piecemeal over the centuries. In the 19th century the whole castle was remodelled in a mock-medieval style.
Dunvegan Castle on the shore of the Loch
Part of the Harbour Seal colony on a small island in view of the castle
A Harbour Seal with an itch!
On our last day on Skye we set off on another relative short but strenuous hike in search of Sea Eagles that nest on the cliffs near Portree, the Island’s largest town. We unfortunately didn’t spot the eagles, but we did have a lovely walk, with fabulous views over Portree Harbour and the coastline of Portree Bay.
View across Portree Bay to the harbour and the Cuillin Hills mountain range in the distance
Beal Point on the headland juts out into Portree Bay, with the Isle of Raasay in the distance. A Salmon farm is also located in the bay.
Charlotte takes a rest whilst making sure this steep zig-zag ascent we are half way up is actually the correct route – it was!
Tomorrow we leave the beautiful Isle of Skye and drive north to join the North Coast 500 route and our next stay in Gairloch.
Charlotte & Graham's Travels 